Address: Avenida de Naos street, 32. Arrecife.
Timetable: Monday to Saturday: 6:00-16:00.
Price: 20-30 €.
Recommendations: Try what’s arguably the best appetizer in the capital: tuna, salmon or sardine montaditos (mini baguette rolls).
Terrace: Yes.
Reserve: No.

This bar has invited the past to come and stay. Its striped awning, and matching t-shirts worn by the two managers perfectly sum up the seafaring flavour of the place. Freshly fried whitebait wriggle under the watchful gaze of the bar’s clientele who seem frozen in contemplation.

The ‘sea dogs’ that frequent Bahía de Naos come in different guises; port workers, civil servants, stray tourists, youngsters listening to the old folk and old folk longing to be young again… At their service are Luis, a.k.a ‘Guicho’ and Jesús Luna, ‘El Flaco’, who veritably pour the sea onto platters groaning with marinated tuna, cod cubes and fried squid: all fighting for their place in the spotlight.

If you are looking for a place with true charm, a fresh breeze and cheap food, Bahía Naos is a safe bet. It’s where old and shabby is not chic but ‘authentic’, located in a capital that started life as a port. It’s quite possible that, without the slightest nod to aesthetics, this is where you can eat the best prepared grilled scallops on the island and the most spectacular Russian salad.